Bishamon-do: My last goshuin of 2021

When Hunter and I were planning out where we were going to visit during our 6 days in Kyoto, Bishamon-do wasn’t even on the list. I was actually just goofing off on Google Maps, exploring the area near where we were staying, when I happened to click on it. The first picture I saw was the one I remembered seeing as a computer wallpaper years ago — a staircase covered in bright red leaves, leading up to a gate. “Oh my gosh, THAT’S where that is??!!” I thought. We ended up going on our last day in Kyoto, when I was already tired and ready to go home. I’m really happy that we went anyway, though, because it was just what I needed!

Bishamon-do is about a fifteen minute walk from Yamashina Station, which we did while snow lightly flurried around us. It was quite cold, but the walk had us sweating in no time. When we arrived, I was instantly a little nervous. Check the date… Ah… It’s December 31st. No wonder…

There is a small gate in front of the main hall of the Bishamon-do.

People were running around like crazy! Darting here and there, carrying armfuls of goods and lugging around tables. I felt a little bad as we walked up to the main temple. There were signs as we approached, saying “Please go to the reception. You must pay to enter the temple.” As we stood around trying to find the reception, someone stopping and helped us. We took off our shoes, changed into slippers, and off we went.

Touring Bishamon-do

I think one of my favorite things about this temple was that we were two of four people touring the temple at that time. I think the combination of snow and it being New Year’s Eve really helped keep people away! It was a wonderful surprise, finding some peace and quiet. Especially after all the hustle and bustle at most of Kyoto’s other attractions!

For me, the best part of the temple was the private garden in the back. Pond, trees, stone lanterns — with the softly falling snow, I think I could’ve stayed there all day if I had a blanket and a warm drink!

The Temple

Last, we entered the temple itself. The monk there was explaining some of the history to a few Japanese people seated inside, but he paused to help us light some incense. The statues in the back, and the delicate paintings on the ceiling, were beautiful.

The Grounds

Even though it was beautiful when we went, I would love to come back and see Bishamon-do in spring time. There is a large cherry tree standing proudly on the grounds, as well as a trellis supporting a weeping cherry tree that’s over 150 years old!

A beautiful cherry tree on the grounds of Bishamon-do

The Stairs

The ‘famous’ stairs are in front of the entrance not to the temple, but to the other buildings on the grounds. We exited out of the gate in the picture on the left below, then saw the stairs nearby and ran over!

The gate at the top of the famous stairs is always blocked off. According to the pamphlet they gave us, they only opened the gate in the past when the emperor or his representative visited. Now, they open it when they are performing a ceremony to anoint a new head priest for the temple.

The Goshuin

Now that we’d toured Bishamon-do, lit some incense, and found the stairs, it was time for the stamp! They had a wide variety so I ended up getting two — a gold and a silver. My last goshuin of 2021 are heckin’ fancy!


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